My obsession with visiting Mackinac Island began somewhere around 1980, when I first watched the movie Somewhere In Time with Christopher Reeve and Jane Seymour. The movie’s time period went back and forth between then-current-day Chicago and 1912 at the Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island.
After seeing the movie, I learned that the majority of it was filmed on the island, a place where cars had been banned, Victorian architecture was the rule of the day, and the only way to get around was by horse or on foot. (Bicycles are also found everywhere on the island). The idea of a modern day place that had maintained some of the slower, older ways of life intrigued me, and I knew I had to see it for myself one day. This place wasn’t just a vacation destination goal. It was a full-fledged Bucket List item for me.
During our summer work camping in Mackinaw City, we were presented with the perfect opportunity for me to finally experience a very important item on my list of life’s goals. From our campsite in Mackinaw Mill Creek Camping, we could see Mackinac Island and the Grand Hotel looming in her spot above Lake Huron. From the moment of our arrival, she beckoned for us to visit.
There are only three ways to get to Mackinac Island – by boat, by aircraft, or in the winter when the lake freezes solidly enough, by ice bridge. One of the local ferry companies, Star Line ferry, operated a free shuttle that picked up guests from Mackinaw Mill Creek Camping and took them directly to the ferry dock. One morning in June, we grabbed our bicycles and headed out. The ferry shuttle tows a trailer behind it specifically to carry guests’ bicycles, and it costs $11 round trip to take a bike to the island. Compare this to the $35 to $50 per day rental cost of a bicycle on the island, and it’s well worth it to bring your own bicycle.
Once aboard our boat, the ferry ride lasted about 20 minutes. Depending upon your departure time, some ferries make a loop beneath the Mighty Mackinaw bridge before heading over to the island (check the ferry schedule for these trips).
When we arrived at the dock on the Mackinac Island, I was surprised to see a cruise ship berthed there. It just so happens there are a couple of cruise lines on the Great Lakes that visit numerous ports of call and even transit the locks in Sault Ste. Marie (the Soo Locks).
Stepping off the ferry and onto Mackinac Island’s main street, the first thing I noticed were the number of horse carriages. Hotels such as the Grand Hotel have their own equine transport services for guests and their luggage. Private companies offer horse drawn carriage tours around the island, and livery stables offer guests a chance to rent a horse for the day and ride around the island.
The next thing I noticed were the sheer number of bicycles. It was mid-June, and the streets were lined with them (in this town, horses have the right of way). We found a small pizza shop, and for about $6 each had a slice, a breadstick and a drink. Refreshed and refueled, we took off on our bikes toward the east side of the island.
Once out of town, traffic of all kinds thins out and one is left with a peaceful ride, looking out over turquoise and blue waters reminiscent of Hawaii. Within a mile, we reached our first major point of interest, the rock arch that overlooks Lake Huron from high on top of a bluff. We parked our bikes and climbed the 208 stairs to the top, at which point we found out you can take the much less grueling route of riding one of the horse carriages up there. We climbed another short flight of stairs and were rewarded with spectacular views.
Some of the 208 steps leading up to the arch. 
After spending a few minutes looking around at the top, we descended back to our bikes and continued on. The back side of the island is fairly remote, with only a few sparse homes along the way. On the west side of the island we came across British Landing, where an old cannon still aims toward the Mighty Mac.
We completed our seven-ish mile ride around the perimeter of the island, which took us past some spectacular homes and the high school before coming back into town. We stopped in at Mary’s Tavern for a cold beer before continuing on.
While in Mary’s, the bartender recommended a dark beer called Mind Shift. With an alcohol content of 14%, it tasted like chocolate flavored bourbon. (Once we were back in Mackinaw City, we found a local brew called Dragon’s Milk that was very similar).
Finally it was time to go see the Grand Hotel. It was an uphill ride on the bikes, and many people had stopped to walk them up the wide road. Carriages were busy transporting guests to and from the hotel, and there was a lot of hustle and bustle around the entrance.
It costs $10 per adult to go inside and walk through the hotel. (If you dine at the buffet, which costs about $50 per person, they will deduct your entrance fee from your meal). We strolled through the gift shops and hallways, and eventually made our way out to the grand terrace. The most prominent feature of the hotel, the terrace extends 600 feet across the front, with sweeping views of the Straits and Michigan’s lower peninsula. We found a couple of rocking chairs in a shady spot and enjoyed a glass of wine. Finally, we went back inside to view the memorabilia marking the making of the movie.
There are many items on display in the main lobby, including the bowler hat worn by Christopher Reeve in his 1912 garb, the portrait of Jane Seymour that figures prominently in the movie, and the official movie poster. You can go up to the third floor and stroll past the Somewhere in Time suite, where the hallway is adorned with paintings and photographs from the movie.
Once I’d had my fill, we headed back toward the ferry dock. Our last stop before boarding the boat was at Murdick;s Fudge, one of the original fudge shops on the island. We watched them making the delectable treat, and bought some to take home with us.
There is so much to see and do on the island, one day really isn’t enough. We enjoyed our experience so much, we made another trip over later in the season, after most of the summer crowds had diminished. If you’re staying in Mackinaw City or St. Ignace (on the upper peninsula), you can purchase a multi-day ferry ticket. That way you can take your time and discover for yourself all this amazing little island has to offer.
